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Hurricane Prep Checklist: The Power Backup Edition

Everything to do before the storm, in the order that matters. Written for the week you actually have, not the year you should have had.

By Dhruvil DomadiyaUpdated 3 min read

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A storm spiral turning over a single lit house
What's in this article

The forecast cone moved east and now it's pointed at you. You've got maybe three days.

This is the list. It's in order. The free things come first, because the free things matter most and everyone skips them to go shopping.

72 hours out

Charge absolutely everything. Power station to 100 percent. Phones, laptops, tablets, power banks, tool batteries, the kids' devices. Anything that holds a charge.

This is the single most important line on this page. A power station sitting at 40 percent when the grid drops is most of a wasted purchase.

Fill your car's gas tank. Not for evacuating — for charging. A 12V adapter turns your car into a slow generator, and gas stations can't pump without power.

Fill the freezer with water. Jugs, bottles, zip bags. Mass holds cold, air doesn't. This is free and it roughly doubles how long a half-empty freezer stays safe. verify

Get cash. Card readers need power and internet. So do ATMs.

48 hours out

Turn the fridge and freezer colder. You're banking cold into the food itself. It buys you hours later for nothing now.

Test the power station under real load. Plug the fridge into it for ten minutes.

Do this. Genuinely. Finding out your unit trips on the compressor surge is something you want to learn on a Tuesday afternoon, not at midnight in the wind.

Fill the bathtub. If you're on a well, no power means no water at all. Bathtub water is for flushing, not drinking.

Refill prescriptions. Pharmacies close and their systems need power.

24 hours out

Charge everything again. Things drift down. Top them up.

Bring the solar panels inside. They're not useful in the storm and they're expensive kites.

Cook what will spoil. Eat down the fridge. Anything cooked keeps a bit longer than anything raw.

Locate the flashlights. All of them. Not the phone — you'll want the phone battery.

Charge a couple of power banks. Small, cheap, and they mean the power station doesn't get opened for a phone.

When the power goes

Don't open the fridge. Four hours if you leave it shut. Much less if you keep checking. verify

Run the fridge in cycles, not continuously. An hour on, three hours off. Food's fine and the battery lasts much longer.

Turn the CPAP humidifier off if anyone uses one. Roughly halves the draw for the same night's sleep.

Text, don't call. Texts get through congested networks when calls don't, and they use less battery.

Estimated runtime by appliance
ApplianceEcoFlow DELTA 21,024 WhBluetti AC200L2,048 Wh
Full-size refrigerator~150W running, cycles ~35% of the time17 hr33 hr
CPAP (no humidifier)~40W running22 hr44 hr
Box fan~75W running12 hr23 hr
Wi-Fi router + modem~20W running44 hr87 hr
Estimates, not promises. Calculated from published capacity with a 15% allowance for inverter losses, using typical appliance draw — your fridge is not our fridge. Cold weather cuts these numbers further.

The heat problem nobody solves

Here's the honest bit, because most hurricane content dodges it.

You are not running air conditioning off a portable battery. Not for a meaningful length of time, not at any sensible price.

A small window unit drains a 2,000Wh battery in a few hours, and that's the small one. Central air isn't even a conversation.

What actually works in the heat is a box fan. Around 75 watts, runs for many hours on a modest battery, and moving air makes a genuine difference to how a room feels. verify

Buy the fan. Skip the fantasy about the AC.

What to buy if you're buying this week

A 1,000 to 2,000Wh LiFePO4 unit with at least 1,800W output. Fridge, fans, internet, phones, CPAP. That's the outage solved for most households.

A 200W-class solar panel, if outages in your area run past two days. Below that length, panels are optional.

A 12V car charging adapter. Cheap, and the most reliable recharging method there is, because your car is already outside with fuel in it.

Don't buy a unit under 500Wh as your storm plan. It won't protect food. It's a fine thing to own — it isn't a hurricane plan.

Don't buy a gas generator in a panic without also buying a carbon monoxide alarm. People die from generator exhaust after every major storm, in garages and near windows, and they die in their sleep.

After the storm

Solar panels out as soon as it's safe. Even overcast puts something back.

Assume three days minimum. Crews restore the biggest population centers first. Rural and coastal lines wait.

Check on neighbors, especially anyone with medical equipment. A power station with capacity left is a genuinely useful thing to be able to offer someone.

The picks, in detail

Specs come from data/products.json, so they're the same everywhere on this site.

EcoFlow DELTA 2 portable power station

EcoFlow

EcoFlow DELTA 2

The one most people should buy. It refills fast enough that a short sunny break between storm bands actually matters.

Capacity
1,024 Wh
AC output
1,800W
Weight
27 lb

What's good

  • Wall recharge is genuinely quick — useful when power flickers back for an hour
  • LiFePO4 cells, so it tolerates being left plugged in for years
  • Six AC outlets means no daisy-chained power strips on the kitchen counter
  • Add an extra battery later instead of buying a whole second unit

What's annoying

  • The fan is audible in a quiet bedroom at night
  • 1800W ceiling rules out most space heaters and hair dryers
  • Expansion batteries cost nearly as much as the unit itself

Who this is wrong for

Anyone who needs to power a well pump, an electric water heater or a central AC. It will not start them, and it is not a whole-home unit.

Bluetti AC200L portable power station

Bluetti

Bluetti AC200L

Specs unverified

A lot of battery for the money, with the port selection of a small workshop.

Capacity
2,048 Wh
AC output
2,400W
Weight
61.9 lb

What's good

  • Expandable, unlike most Bluetti units at this size
  • A genuinely useful spread of ports including a 30A RV outlet
  • Fast recharge for a 2kWh unit

What's annoying

  • Shorter warranty than EcoFlow and Jackery offer
  • Big and awkward to store
  • Bluetti's US service turnaround has been inconsistent

Who this is wrong for

Small apartments. It's physically large and you will trip over it.

Questions people actually ask

How long should I prepare to be without power after a hurricane?

Plan for three days as a working minimum. Widespread damage in rural or coastal areas regularly runs longer, and crews restore the biggest population centers first.

Should I buy a generator or a battery before a storm?

If you can only get one thing this week, a battery is the safer purchase — it works indoors, needs no fuel, and starts working the moment the power drops. Gas gives you more raw power but needs fuel you may not be able to buy.

Can I charge a power station from my car?

Yes, with a 12V adapter. It is slow and it burns gas, but your car is already in the driveway with a full tank if you followed the checklist. It has rescued more outages than solar panels have.

Do solar panels work during a hurricane?

Not during it, and bring them inside before the wind arrives. They matter in the days after, when the sky clears and the grid is still down.

What is the single most important thing to do?

Charge everything to full while you still have grid power. A power station at 40 percent when the lights go out is most of a wasted purchase.

Who wrote this

Dhruvil Domadiya

Founder and editor, GreenCommuteGuide

I started GreenCommuteGuide because backup power is sold with numbers that sound impressive and mean very little — watt-hours on the box, surge ratings that turn out to be a boost mode, charge times quoted to 80% and printed as though they were full. I set the rules this site runs on: every spec is checked against the manufacturer's own documentation, anything we have not verified is marked as unverified on the page rather than quietly published, prices are never shown because they go stale, and every review names at least one product not to buy and who it is wrong for. Where I have not tested something myself, the page says so.

  • · Sets and enforces the editorial standards on this site — unverified claims are flagged on the page, and the build fails if they are not
  • · Specs are taken from manufacturers' own published documentation, never from retailer listings, and the source and date are recorded for each product
  • · No payment is accepted for a rating, a ranking, or a positive verdict

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