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Home Outage & Backup

Interlock Kit vs Transfer Switch: Which Do You Need?

Both do the same safety job. One is cheaper and gives you more circuits. Here is how to pick, and the shortcut that kills people.

By Dhruvil DomadiyaUpdated 3 min read

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A dark street at night with one house still lit
What's in this article

What each one actually is

Transfer switch

A separate box mounted beside your panel. During installation an electrician moves a chosen set of circuits into it — the furnace, the fridge circuit, some lights, maybe the well.

You flip it from GRID to GENERATOR and those circuits draw from your battery or generator instead.

Upside: clearly labelled, obvious to use, hard to get wrong. Downside: you're locked to the circuits chosen at install, and it's a second box on the wall.

Interlock kit

A metal plate that mounts on your existing panel. It physically blocks the main breaker and the generator breaker from being on together — you have to turn one off to reach the other.

Upside: cheaper, and you get access to every circuit. Want to run the well this hour and the furnace the next? Just switch breakers. Downside: must be a listed kit for your panel. And it relies on you managing your own load — nothing stops you switching on more than your generator can carry.


How to pick

Your situationPick
A listed kit exists for your panelInterlock — cheaper, more flexible
No kit for your panel brandTransfer switch
You want it foolproof for anyone in the houseTransfer switch
You want maximum circuits for minimum moneyInterlock
RentingNeither — you can't modify the panel

⛔ The shortcut that kills people


Do you even need one?

Probably not, and this is worth checking before you spend anything.

Everything you need has a plug? Fridge, lamps, router, phone chargers, a fan. Then extension cords cover you completely. No panel work, no electrician, no cost.

You need hardwired things? Furnace blower, well pump, sump pump, electric water heater. Those have no plug and nothing but panel work reaches them.

Wiring a panel to the first unit would be wasted money — 1,800W and 120V doesn't reach the loads that need it.

Swipe the table sideways to see every column.

Price
EcoFlowEcoFlow DELTA Pro 3LiFePO4 · expandable4,096 Wh4,000W6,000W113 lb5 yrCheck price for EcoFlow DELTA Pro 3 (opens in a new tab, affiliate link)
AnkerAnker SOLIX F3800LiFePO4 · expandable3,840 Wh6,000W9,000W132.3 lb5 yrCheck price for Anker SOLIX F3800 (opens in a new tab, affiliate link)
EcoFlowEcoFlow DELTA 2LiFePO4 · expandable1,024 Wh1,800W2,700W27 lb1h 20m5 yrCheck price for EcoFlow DELTA 2 (opens in a new tab, affiliate link)

Specs come from data/products.json. Capacity is the figure on the box — real usable output is roughly 85% of it once you account for inverter losses.


The middle path most people miss

You don't have to back up the whole panel.

One circuit for the gas furnace blower, with an interlock, is often the entire answer in cold country. The blower is a modest load — around 400 watts — and running it heats your whole house rather than one room.

That's a much smaller job than backing up everything, and it delivers most of the benefit for a fraction of the cost.

On cost

Get local quotes. Any number in an article is guesswork — labour varies enormously by region and by how awkward your panel is.

But price the whole thing before committing: battery plus the electrical work. At that total, get a standby generator quote too. They start themselves, run on gas or propane, and don't run out on day three.

They're also loud, need servicing, and can't run indoors. It's a real trade — just make it with both numbers in front of you.

The picks, in detail

Specs come from data/products.json, so they're the same everywhere on this site.

EcoFlow DELTA Pro 3 home backup power station

EcoFlow

EcoFlow DELTA Pro 3

Specs unverified

The first portable unit that can honestly claim to back up parts of a house, including 240V circuits.

Capacity
4,096 Wh
AC output
4,000W
Weight
113 lb

What's good

  • 240V output covers well pumps and some dryers, which almost nothing else portable does
  • Pairs with a transfer switch so you stop running extension cords through a window
  • Chains with extra batteries into genuinely serious capacity

What's annoying

  • Costs about the same as a permanently installed standby generator once you add a transfer switch
  • 113 lb means it lives where you put it
  • The install to make it useful is an electrician job, not a weekend project

Who this is wrong for

Anyone who wants to move it more than once. It has wheels for a reason, and stairs will beat you.

Anker SOLIX F3800 home backup power station

Anker

Anker SOLIX F3800

A home backup system wearing a portable power station's clothes. Treat it as an install, not a purchase.

Capacity
3,840 Wh
AC output
6,000W
Weight
132.3 lb

What's good

  • 6000W output covers nearly anything in a normal house, one at a time
  • Real 240V, so the well pump and the dryer are on the table
  • Stacks with expansion batteries into a very large bank

What's annoying

  • 132 lb, and it needs a permanent home
  • The transfer switch and electrician push the real cost well past the sticker
  • At this price a standby generator deserves a serious look

Who this is wrong for

Renters. You cannot get the value out of it without wiring work you don't own.

EcoFlow DELTA 2 portable power station

EcoFlow

EcoFlow DELTA 2

The one most people should buy. It refills fast enough that a short sunny break between storm bands actually matters.

Capacity
1,024 Wh
AC output
1,800W
Weight
27 lb

What's good

  • Wall recharge is genuinely quick — useful when power flickers back for an hour
  • LiFePO4 cells, so it tolerates being left plugged in for years
  • Six AC outlets means no daisy-chained power strips on the kitchen counter
  • Add an extra battery later instead of buying a whole second unit

What's annoying

  • The fan is audible in a quiet bedroom at night
  • 1800W ceiling rules out most space heaters and hair dryers
  • Expansion batteries cost nearly as much as the unit itself

Who this is wrong for

Anyone who needs to power a well pump, an electric water heater or a central AC. It will not start them, and it is not a whole-home unit.

Questions people actually ask

What is the difference between an interlock kit and a transfer switch?

A transfer switch is a separate box wired to a fixed set of circuits, usually six to ten. An interlock kit is a metal plate on your existing panel that makes it physically impossible to have the main breaker and the generator breaker on at once. Both prevent backfeeding. The interlock is usually cheaper and gives you access to every circuit in the panel.

Is an interlock kit legal?

Yes, when it is a kit listed for your specific panel brand and model and installed to code. A homemade plate is not legal and will fail inspection. Not every panel has a listed kit available, which is the main reason people end up with a transfer switch instead.

Which is cheaper?

An interlock kit is normally the cheaper option because it uses your existing panel rather than adding a second box. Get local quotes though - labour varies far more than parts, and every panel is different.

Do I need either one for a portable power station?

Not for anything with a plug. A fridge, lamps, a router and phone chargers all run from extension cords. You only need one of these to reach hardwired loads like a furnace blower, a well pump or a sump pump.

Can I install an interlock kit myself?

This is work inside your main electrical panel with the busbars live. Unless you are a qualified electrician, no. Getting it wrong can kill you, start a fire, and void your insurance.

Who wrote this

Dhruvil Domadiya

Founder and editor, GreenCommuteGuide

I started GreenCommuteGuide because backup power is sold with numbers that sound impressive and mean very little — watt-hours on the box, surge ratings that turn out to be a boost mode, charge times quoted to 80% and printed as though they were full. I set the rules this site runs on: every spec is checked against the manufacturer's own documentation, anything we have not verified is marked as unverified on the page rather than quietly published, prices are never shown because they go stale, and every review names at least one product not to buy and who it is wrong for. Where I have not tested something myself, the page says so.

  • · Sets and enforces the editorial standards on this site — unverified claims are flagged on the page, and the build fails if they are not
  • · Specs are taken from manufacturers' own published documentation, never from retailer listings, and the source and date are recorded for each product
  • · No payment is accepted for a rating, a ranking, or a positive verdict

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