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Sizing & Calculators

Watt-Hours to Amp-Hours: The Conversion, in Plain English

Multiply amp-hours by volts. That is the whole formula — and it is why a 100Ah battery can mean two completely different things.

By Dhruvil DomadiyaUpdated 5 min read

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A water tank labelled watt-hours feeding a tap labelled watts
What's in this article

The formula, both directions

Ah → Wh: multiply by volts

100Ah × 12V = 1,200Wh
100Ah × 24V = 2,400Wh
280Ah × 12V = 3,360Wh

Wh → Ah: divide by volts

1,024Wh ÷ 12V = ~85Ah
2,048Wh ÷ 24V = ~85Ah

That last pair is worth sitting with. Two batteries, both "85Ah", one holding double the energy of the other.


Why amp-hours is used to flatter batteries

Amp-hours measures charge, not energy. On its own it's incomplete.

It survived because 12V systems used to be universal — in a world where everything is 12V, comparing amp-hours is fair. Once voltages vary, it stops meaning anything.


The number that actually matters: usable energy

Rated capacity is not what you get. Two separate discounts apply.

1. Depth of discharge

LiFePO4 — you can use most of it, routinely, without harm.

Lead-acid — you should only take it down about halfway. Go deeper regularly and you kill it fast.

So a 100Ah lead-acid battery advertising 1,200Wh realistically gives you about 600Wh. That's not a trick — it's just how the chemistry works, and it halves the honest comparison.

2. Inverter losses

Turning battery DC into household AC costs you roughly 15% as heat. verify

So a 1,000Wh LiFePO4 pack delivers around 850Wh to your appliances.

Putting it together

BatteryRatedRealistically usable
100Ah lead-acid @ 12V1,200Wh~510Wh (half, then inverter)
100Ah LiFePO4 @ 12V1,200Wh~1,020Wh
1,024Wh power station1,024Wh~870Wh

The lead-acid battery with the biggest headline number delivers the least.


Why power stations quote watt-hours

Partly honesty, partly convenience.

They run various internal voltages, so amp-hours would be meaningless across brands. Watt-hours is directly comparable — and it's the unit you need anyway, because appliances are rated in watts.

Estimated runtime by appliance
ApplianceEcoFlow DELTA 21,024 WhBluetti AC200L2,048 Wh
Full-size refrigerator~150W running, cycles ~35% of the time17 hr33 hr
CPAP (no humidifier)~40W running22 hr44 hr
Wi-Fi router + modem~20W running44 hr87 hr
Box fan~75W running12 hr23 hr
Estimates, not promises. Calculated from published capacity with a 15% allowance for inverter losses, using typical appliance draw — your fridge is not our fridge. Cold weather cuts these numbers further.

Every runtime on this site is worked out from watt-hours for exactly that reason.

Conversion table

The numbers you are most likely to be looking up, at the three voltages that actually appear on batteries.

Amp-hoursat 12Vat 24Vat 48V
20Ah240Wh480Wh960Wh
50Ah600Wh1,200Wh2,400Wh
100Ah1,200Wh2,400Wh4,800Wh
150Ah1,800Wh3,600Wh7,200Wh
200Ah2,400Wh4,800Wh9,600Wh
280Ah3,360Wh6,720Wh13,440Wh
300Ah3,600Wh7,200Wh14,400Wh

And the other direction, for the capacities power stations are actually sold at:

Watt-hoursat 12Vat 24V
250Wh~21Ah~10Ah
500Wh~42Ah~21Ah
1,000Wh~83Ah~42Ah
1,500Wh~125Ah~63Ah
2,000Wh~167Ah~83Ah
3,000Wh~250Ah~125Ah

Worked examples

"Is a 100Ah lithium battery bigger than my 1,000Wh power station?"

At 12V, 100Ah is 1,200Wh. So yes, slightly — on paper. In practice they are close, and the power station includes an inverter, outlets and a charger, while the bare battery does not.

"I have a 200Ah lead-acid bank. How does that compare to a 2,000Wh unit?"

200Ah × 12V = 2,400Wh rated. But lead-acid should only be drained about halfway, so your usable figure is nearer 1,200Wh — meaningfully less than the 2,000Wh unit, despite the larger headline number. This is the single most common way people overestimate a battery bank.

"My solar controller is rated 30A at 12V. What can it deliver?"

30A × 12V = 360W. If you connect 400W of panels, the controller is your ceiling, not the panels.

"An appliance says 5A at 120V. What does that cost me?"

5A × 120V = 600W. Run it for two hours and you have used 1,200Wh — more than a 1,000Wh power station holds. Appliance labels frequently give amps rather than watts, and this is how you translate them.

Why this matters when you are shopping

Two places where getting this wrong costs real money.

Comparing a DIY battery bank to a power station. Bank listings quote Ah, power stations quote Wh, and the comparison is meaningless until you convert. Add the lead-acid depth-of-discharge penalty and a "bigger" bank is often smaller.

Reading RV and marine specs. That whole world speaks Ah. If you are deciding whether a power station can replace a house battery, converting is the only way to compare like with like — and remember the power station also brings the inverter that the house battery needs separately.

The short version

Multiply amp-hours by volts. That's it.

Then remember that rated capacity isn't usable capacity — take off the inverter loss, and for lead-acid, half the battery on top of that.

Do that and the comparisons stop being confusing, and a few "bargains" stop looking like bargains.

If what you actually want is to know how long something will run rather than how big the battery is, watt-hours explained covers that, and the sizing calculator does the arithmetic for your specific appliances.

The picks, in detail

Specs come from data/products.json, so they're the same everywhere on this site.

EcoFlow DELTA 2 portable power station

EcoFlow

EcoFlow DELTA 2

The one most people should buy. It refills fast enough that a short sunny break between storm bands actually matters.

Capacity
1,024 Wh
AC output
1,800W
Weight
27 lb

What's good

  • Wall recharge is genuinely quick — useful when power flickers back for an hour
  • LiFePO4 cells, so it tolerates being left plugged in for years
  • Six AC outlets means no daisy-chained power strips on the kitchen counter
  • Add an extra battery later instead of buying a whole second unit

What's annoying

  • The fan is audible in a quiet bedroom at night
  • 1800W ceiling rules out most space heaters and hair dryers
  • Expansion batteries cost nearly as much as the unit itself

Who this is wrong for

Anyone who needs to power a well pump, an electric water heater or a central AC. It will not start them, and it is not a whole-home unit.

Bluetti AC200L portable power station

Bluetti

Bluetti AC200L

Specs unverified

A lot of battery for the money, with the port selection of a small workshop.

Capacity
2,048 Wh
AC output
2,400W
Weight
61.9 lb

What's good

  • Expandable, unlike most Bluetti units at this size
  • A genuinely useful spread of ports including a 30A RV outlet
  • Fast recharge for a 2kWh unit

What's annoying

  • Shorter warranty than EcoFlow and Jackery offer
  • Big and awkward to store
  • Bluetti's US service turnaround has been inconsistent

Who this is wrong for

Small apartments. It's physically large and you will trip over it.

Questions people actually ask

How do you convert amp-hours to watt-hours?

Multiply amp-hours by the battery voltage. A 100Ah battery at 12V is 1,200 watt-hours. A 100Ah battery at 24V is 2,400 watt-hours - the same Ah figure meaning twice the energy.

How do you convert watt-hours to amp-hours?

Divide watt-hours by voltage. A 1,024Wh power station at 12V would be about 85Ah. Note that power stations rarely publish their internal voltage, which is one reason they quote watt-hours instead.

Why do RV batteries use amp-hours and power stations use watt-hours?

Amp-hours is a legacy from 12V systems where the voltage was always the same, so it was a fair comparison. Once voltages vary, amp-hours alone tells you nothing, which is why watt-hours is the honest unit.

Is a 100Ah battery the same as a 1000Wh power station?

Close, if the battery is 12V - that would be 1,200Wh. But usable energy differs a lot. A lead-acid 100Ah battery should only be drained about halfway, so you really get around 600Wh from it.

How much of a battery's rated capacity can I actually use?

For LiFePO4, most of it, and inverter losses take roughly 15 percent. For lead-acid, only about half before you start shortening its life significantly. That difference matters more than the headline number.

Who wrote this

Dhruvil Domadiya

Founder and editor, GreenCommuteGuide

I started GreenCommuteGuide because backup power is sold with numbers that sound impressive and mean very little — watt-hours on the box, surge ratings that turn out to be a boost mode, charge times quoted to 80% and printed as though they were full. I set the rules this site runs on: every spec is checked against the manufacturer's own documentation, anything we have not verified is marked as unverified on the page rather than quietly published, prices are never shown because they go stale, and every review names at least one product not to buy and who it is wrong for. Where I have not tested something myself, the page says so.

  • · Sets and enforces the editorial standards on this site — unverified claims are flagged on the page, and the build fails if they are not
  • · Specs are taken from manufacturers' own published documentation, never from retailer listings, and the source and date are recorded for each product
  • · No payment is accepted for a rating, a ranking, or a positive verdict

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