Sizing & Calculators
What Size Solar Generator Do I Need? (Free Calculator)
Skip the guesswork. Tick the things you need to keep running, get a real watt-hour number, and see which units can actually do it.
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What's in this article
You are standing in an aisle, or in a browser tab, staring at three numbers that all look like they mean the same thing. 1000Wh. 1800W. 2700W surge.
They do not mean the same thing. And picking wrong costs you either money you didn't need to spend, or a battery that shuts off at 3am.
Let's fix that in about two minutes.
What size do you actually need?
Tick what you want to keep running. Set how long. You'll get a number and three units that can genuinely do it.
Most US outages end within a day. If you're in hurricane or ice-storm country, plan for three and hope for one.
You need about
1,385Wh
That's 1,065 Wh of actual use, plus 30% headroom so you're not running the pack flat.
This assumes everything runs for the full time with no rationing. In a real outage most people cycle the fridge and turn things off, which stretches a smaller unit a long way.
- Biggest startup surge
- 900W
- If everything runs at once
- 235W
The surge number matters more than people think. A unit that can't start your fridge compressor is useless, however big its battery is.
These three can do it
Smallest that fits
Jackery Explorer 2000 Plus
2,042 Wh · 3,000W · 61.5 lb
Jackery's serious one. Stack batteries onto it and it grows with your paranoia.
Link not setOption 2
Bluetti AC200L
2,048 Wh · 2,400W · 61.9 lb
A lot of battery for the money, with the port selection of a small workshop.
Check current price for Bluetti AC200L (opens in a new tab, affiliate link)Option 3
Bluetti Elite 200 V2
2,073 Wh · 2,600W · 53.6 lb
Bluetti's answer to the criticism that their stuff felt cheap. It doesn't anymore.
Check current price for Bluetti Elite 200 V2 (opens in a new tab, affiliate link)
These are estimates built from typical appliance figures, not measurements of your exact fridge. Check the label on the back of your appliance for its real draw before you spend money.
What the three numbers actually mean
Watt-hours (Wh) is the size of the tank. It's how much energy is stored. More watt-hours, more hours.
Watts (W) is the size of the tap. It's how fast energy can come out at once. A big tank with a small tap can't run a microwave, no matter how full it is.
Surge watts is the size of the tap for one second. Motors slam a huge spike when they start. If the surge rating is too low, the unit trips instantly.
How to do the math yourself
Say you want your fridge, your internet, and your phones covered overnight.
Fridge. About 150 watts while the compressor runs. verify But it doesn't run constantly — roughly a third of the time. So over 12 hours it's 150 × 0.33 × 12, which is about 600 watt-hours.
Router and modem. About 20 watts, running the whole time. verify Over 12 hours that's 240 watt-hours.
Phones and a laptop. Call it 65 watts, half the time, over 8 hours. About 260 watt-hours.
Add them: roughly 1,100 watt-hours. Add 30 percent headroom and you want about 1,430.
So you're shopping for a 1,500Wh-class unit, or a 1,000Wh one if you're willing to be a bit careful. Not a 4,000Wh monster.
Why we add 30 percent
Because the number on the box is not the number you get.
The inverter that turns battery DC into wall-socket AC loses energy as heat. Cold weather cuts usable capacity further. And routinely draining any battery to absolute zero shortens its life.
Thirty percent covers all three without pushing you into a size you don't need.
The mistake that wastes the most money
Sizing for everything you own instead of everything you need.
Write down what actually causes damage or misery if it stops. For nearly every household that list is short: fridge, internet, phones, and medical equipment if you use it.
Your TV isn't on that list. Neither is your coffee maker, and definitely not your dryer.
| Appliance | Anker SOLIX C300288 Wh | EcoFlow DELTA 21,024 Wh | Bluetti AC200L2,048 Wh | EcoFlow DELTA Pro 34,096 Wh |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Full-size refrigerator~150W running, cycles ~35% of the time | Won't start it | 17 hr | 33 hr | 66 hr |
| CPAP (no humidifier)~40W running | 6.1 hr | 22 hr | 44 hr | 87 hr |
| Wi-Fi router + modem~20W running | 12 hr | 44 hr | 87 hr | 174 hr |
| Space heater (1500W)~1500W running | Won't run it | 35 min | 1.2 hr | 2.3 hr |
The space heater row is there to make a point. Look how fast everything drains. Heating is the one thing a battery genuinely cannot do at a sensible price.
Sizes that make sense, roughly
Under 500Wh. Phones, a laptop, a CPAP for one night, lights. Not a food-saving device. Fine for camping and for people whose outages last two hours.
1,000 to 1,500Wh. The sweet spot for most US homes. Fridge overnight, internet, phones, a lamp. This is what we'd tell a friend to buy.
2,000 to 3,000Wh. Two-day outages without rationing, or an RV, or a household running medical equipment continuously.
4,000Wh and up. Well pumps, 240V circuits, genuine partial-home backup. Needs an electrician and a transfer switch to be worth it.
What size do you need for a well pump?
Different question entirely, and it's about surge, not capacity.
A half-horsepower well pump can spike to around 2,500 watts when it starts. verify Most 1kWh units surge to about 2,700 — technically enough, but with almost no margin, and margin is what you want at 3am.
Realistically a well pump means a 4,000Wh-class unit with 240V output. That's a different budget, and you should know that before you shop rather than after.
Then check one thing on the label
Go look at the back of your fridge right now. There's a plate with numbers on it.
If it gives amps instead of watts, multiply by 120. That's your real number, and it beats every estimate on the internet including ours.
A Kill A Watt meter costs about as much as a pizza and tells you exactly what each appliance uses. If you're about to spend a thousand dollars on a battery, spending twenty to know you're buying the right one is an easy call.
Once you have your number
Take it to the bracket that matches, rather than to a search box:
| Your number | Where to go next |
|---|---|
| Under 500Wh | Budget power stations under $500 — and an honest account of what that money cannot do |
| 500–1,500Wh | Best under $1,000 and our outage picks |
| Camping or an RV rather than the house | Best for camping, where weight matters more than watt-hours |
| Medical equipment involved | Backup for medical equipment — sized for margin, not for average use |
| Outage longer than two days | Add solar panels; at that length recharging matters more than capacity |
One warning before you shop. If your number came out high because of a heating appliance, check what a solar generator cannot run first. Some of those loads are not a sizing problem — they are out of reach for this whole category, and no budget fixes them.
The picks, in detail
Specs come from data/products.json, so they're the same everywhere on this site.
Anker
Anker SOLIX C300
The one you actually carry. Small, quiet, and built better than anything else this size.
- Capacity
- 288 Wh
- AC output
- 300W
- Weight
- 9.1 lb
What's good
- Built-in light that is actually useful, not a gimmick
- Three USB-C ports, one of them high wattage for laptops
- Charges from empty in about an hour
What's annoying
- 300W ceiling — this powers electronics, not appliances
- Small capacity disappears fast if you plug in anything with a motor
- Priced close to units with three times the capacity on sale
Who this is wrong for
Home backup. If your outage plan is a 288Wh box, you don't have an outage plan.
EcoFlow
EcoFlow DELTA 2
The one most people should buy. It refills fast enough that a short sunny break between storm bands actually matters.
- Capacity
- 1,024 Wh
- AC output
- 1,800W
- Weight
- 27 lb
What's good
- Wall recharge is genuinely quick — useful when power flickers back for an hour
- LiFePO4 cells, so it tolerates being left plugged in for years
- Six AC outlets means no daisy-chained power strips on the kitchen counter
- Add an extra battery later instead of buying a whole second unit
What's annoying
- The fan is audible in a quiet bedroom at night
- 1800W ceiling rules out most space heaters and hair dryers
- Expansion batteries cost nearly as much as the unit itself
Who this is wrong for
Anyone who needs to power a well pump, an electric water heater or a central AC. It will not start them, and it is not a whole-home unit.
Bluetti
Bluetti AC200L
Specs unverifiedA lot of battery for the money, with the port selection of a small workshop.
- Capacity
- 2,048 Wh
- AC output
- 2,400W
- Weight
- 61.9 lb
What's good
- Expandable, unlike most Bluetti units at this size
- A genuinely useful spread of ports including a 30A RV outlet
- Fast recharge for a 2kWh unit
What's annoying
- Shorter warranty than EcoFlow and Jackery offer
- Big and awkward to store
- Bluetti's US service turnaround has been inconsistent
Who this is wrong for
Small apartments. It's physically large and you will trip over it.
EcoFlow
EcoFlow DELTA Pro 3
Specs unverifiedThe first portable unit that can honestly claim to back up parts of a house, including 240V circuits.
- Capacity
- 4,096 Wh
- AC output
- 4,000W
- Weight
- 113 lb
What's good
- 240V output covers well pumps and some dryers, which almost nothing else portable does
- Pairs with a transfer switch so you stop running extension cords through a window
- Chains with extra batteries into genuinely serious capacity
What's annoying
- Costs about the same as a permanently installed standby generator once you add a transfer switch
- 113 lb means it lives where you put it
- The install to make it useful is an electrician job, not a weekend project
Who this is wrong for
Anyone who wants to move it more than once. It has wheels for a reason, and stairs will beat you.
Questions people actually ask
What size solar generator do I need for a refrigerator?
Is 1000Wh enough for a power outage?
What size do I need to run a whole house?
Should I buy bigger than I calculate?
How do I find my appliance's wattage?
Who wrote this
Dhruvil Domadiya
Founder and editor, GreenCommuteGuide
I started GreenCommuteGuide because backup power is sold with numbers that sound impressive and mean very little — watt-hours on the box, surge ratings that turn out to be a boost mode, charge times quoted to 80% and printed as though they were full. I set the rules this site runs on: every spec is checked against the manufacturer's own documentation, anything we have not verified is marked as unverified on the page rather than quietly published, prices are never shown because they go stale, and every review names at least one product not to buy and who it is wrong for. Where I have not tested something myself, the page says so.
- · Sets and enforces the editorial standards on this site — unverified claims are flagged on the page, and the build fails if they are not
- · Specs are taken from manufacturers' own published documentation, never from retailer listings, and the source and date are recorded for each product
- · No payment is accepted for a rating, a ranking, or a positive verdict
Read this next
- Sizing & CalculatorsWatt-Hours Explained: Wh, Ah and kWh Made SimpleWatts is how fast. Watt-hours is how much. Get those two straight and every spec sheet in this category stops being confusing.
- Sizing & CalculatorsSurge Watts vs Running Watts: What Actually Trips Your UnitYour battery is big enough and it still shut off. This is why, and it is the spec almost nobody checks before buying.
- Sizing & CalculatorsHow Many Watts to Run a House During an Outage?The honest number is far smaller than the internet says — because you are not running a house, you are running four things in it.
- Home Outage & BackupBest Solar Generators for Power Outages in 2026Which battery actually gets your family through the night, which one is a waste of money, and how to tell the difference before you spend.